Mountains, Snow, and Tamare
The following morning greeted us with near-360-degree mountain views. Breakfast was leisurely, with a family from Israel sharing the room. I explained to Dave the Albania of the past, using Zef as a conduit for stories of pre-democracy hardships. Zef’s eyes welled up as he recounted family experiences under communism, a moment of quiet reflection.
We set off for Koplik, then turned onto roads I’d never ridden, climbing to nearly 1,000 metres with breathtaking vistas. Hairpins and switchbacks demanded careful riding, brakes deliberately cooled, and the scenery left us speechless. We descended into the village of Tamarë, famous for its mountain spring water. A coffee stop provided a moment to dry off and gather energy. Ordering coffee in Albanian remains a challenge—my attempts drew polite smiles—but the cafés here are always eager to accommodate.
We continued up the mountains in search of lodgings, guided by a local’s enthusiastic recommendation. Soon, snow began to settle around us. We found a delightful family-run lodge, complete with wood-burning stoves, indoor bathrooms, and ample warmth. Dave took the double bed, I took the single, and electricity and hot showers restored our spirits.
Dinner was freshly prepared by the lodge owners, assisted by their English-speaking son. Across the road, we met a couple traveling in the opposite direction on a BMW 1250, panniers and top boxes fully loaded, heading toward Croatia. The night passed peacefully, snow still on the surrounding peaks, a fitting end to our adventurous first two days in Albania.
Comments
Post a Comment